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LNDN Pt.2 | Freelance like a motherfucker
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3. Juli 2018 Chris

LNDN Pt.2


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„This shit may save your life.“ 
— unknown / restroom wall

Beim Biss in den Bagel strömt das flüssige Fett nur so aus dem 2cm dicken Bacon Belag, den mir die fröhliche Dame hinter der Theke des „ersten Bagel Shops Englands“ mit einem herzerwärmenden „There you go, darling.“ in einer, mittlerweile fast durchsichtigen, Tüte über die gläserne Theke gereicht hat.

Wir sind die Bethnal Green Road entlang bis zur Brick Lane (deren erste Strasse dann auch wirklich die Bacon Street ist), auf der Suche nach ordentlichem Soulfood. Und hier bedeutet das: Fett.
Viel Fett.
Also sehr viel Fett.
Dennoch bleibt es nur ein halbherzig ausgeführter Angriff auf die Arterien, denn was fehlt, zumindest von Haus aus, ist Salz. Und zwar immer. Selbst die legendären Fish & Chips bei Poppies bedürfen einer Nachbehandlung.

Wir gehen in’s Montys um uns zur Happy Hour zu vergewissern, dass jeder, aber auch wirklich jeder Cocktail, der Ginger Beer enthält, widerlich ist. 

Also weiter Richtung City of Westminster, genauer gesagt nach Soho. Einer Gegend, die ihrem Namensvetter in New York City gar nicht so unähnlich ist. Dennoch verbleibt der eine, eklatante Unterschied.
Der Big Apple wurde nach dem Prinzip der rechten Winkel designed und gebaut, was die Orientierung, sofern das Zahlensystem der Strassen einmal verinnerlicht wurde, enorm erleichtert.
London hingegen ist eine gewachsene und gewucherte, beinahe 2000 Jahre alte Metropole, deren erste Befestigungsanlage etwa ein Kilometer südwestlich von hier die römische Siedlung Londinium schützte.

Selbstverständlich verlaufen wir uns und verharren nach wiederholtem Abbiegen und Umkehren ratlos zwischen einem, im Bau befindlichen Wolkenkratzer, einer Bar für Investment Banker und einem, mit Müllcontainern gesäumten Hinterhof. Irgendwo steigt Rauch oder Dampf aus der Kanalisation. Es ist hier ziemlich windgeschützt.

Und dann steht da plötzlich der Fuchs.
Inmitten von Asphalt, Glas, Beton und Metall streift diese strahlend rostbraune Kreatur langsam, elegant und geräuschlos aus dem Schein einer Strassenlaterne ins Zwielicht und lässt uns dabei keine Sekunde aus den Augen.
Dann, auf ein unsichtbares, unhörbares Signal hin, wirbelt er herum und verschwindet zwischen den Häusern. Hinter der Ecke, um die er geschmeidig unseren Blicken entglitt liegt unsere Underground Station.

Wir sagen danke & fahren nach Soho.

Am 25. Oktober 1415 standen englische Langbogenschützen der gewaltigen Übermacht des französischen Heeres in der Schlacht von Azincourt gegenüber. Der Einsatz dieser Distanzwaffen wirkte sich so verheerend aus, dass England die Schlacht für sich entscheiden konnte.
Nun ist Krieg grausam und das französische Heer hat zuvor jedem, in Gefangenschaft geratenen Engländer Zeige- und Mittelfinger abgeschnitten, da diese den Pfeil in der Sehne des Bogens gespannt haben.
Dies war die Geburtsstunde einer, im gesamten British Empire bekannten Geste abgrundtiefster Verachtung. Die siegreichen Engländer zeigten ihren Widersachern stolz Zeige- und Mittelfinger. Ein historisches „Fuck you!“.
Nicht weniger als 600 Jahre später kommt es in einem Pub zu einer mittelschweren Schlägerei, die auf einfachstem Wege hätte verhindert werden können.

Auf dem 5 Pfund Schein, den man getrost für ein Pint einplanen kann, ist ein Bild von Winston Churchill zu sehen. Dieser machte das „V for Victory“ 1941 populär. Zeige- und Mittelfinger gestreckt, Handfläche nach aussen. So bestellt man zwei Pints in einem Pub, in dem sich dichtgedrängt große Menschen mit Tattoos, langen Haaren, Lederjacken, schweren Stiefeln zu ohrenbetäubender Musik stark angetrunken anschreien.
Handfläche nach aussen. Vom eigenen Körper weg.

Den Auswirkungen des Handrückens (sic) nach aussen entgehe ich, indem ich mich zu den Toiletten im Keller durchschlage. Hier ist die Stimmung noch entspannt und die Vibrations sind progressiv.
Auf 2 Quadratmetern hat sich ein kleiner Kreis zusammengefunden. Man kennt sich nicht, fasst aber über eine, in die Bar geschmuggelte, kreisende Flasche Famous Grouse Vertrauen zueinander. Über uns zersplittern hörbar Gläser.

Es ist deutlich nach Mitternacht, in wenigen Stunden müssen wir den Flieger in Heathrow erwischen. Einer der Umstehenden zieht ein winziges Briefchen aus seiner Hosentasche. Ich denke an den Fuchs, der es geschafft hat, eine Umwelt, für die er nicht gemacht ist, zu seiner zu machen.
Das ist mehr, als die meisten Menschen von sich behaupten können.

Dieser Artikel ist in seiner Rohfassung auf medium.com veröffentlicht worden und wurde für diesen Blog behutsam editiert.
Sämtliche Fotos hat der beeindruckende Michael Schwettmann gemacht, mit dem ich das Vergnügen hatte, ein paar Tage im Herbst 2016 in London verbringen zu dürfen.

www.michaelschwettmann.de

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